Diesel Doctor

[SpongeBobSP]

My 2000 F350 has doen this a couple of time now.
We tow our 5th wheel - wife has commented the last two trips how hot the floor gets (planned on getting much bigger trans cooler).
Run great but after shutting down it wont turn over unless it sits for 3 to 4 hours.

What is freaking out the computer to not allow it to turn over?
All dash lights operate as expected, dont see any warning lights. Havent scanned for codes yet.

Just did it yesterday after a 45 minute haul up a mountain, so ran the engine up to 3k on tach for some of the trip to keep freeway speeds. Unhooked in camping spot, let it idle for 5 minutes or so to cool down turbo. Shut off for about 10 - tried to restart and nothing. Not even a click just the normal ignition on sounds.

The only mods are a K&N air box replacement filter kids and 5" exhaust kit.
Any thoughts?


Thanks
Dan

[DieselTechnology]

Never Never tow a truck with the wheels on the ground!
You could do sooooooooooooooooo mush dammage to a bunch of sensors and components in the trany and clutch and driveline.
Even if you mod your trany with a lub pump to tow, it still doesnt protect it from everything.

I just graduated with a diesel technology degree and my last class was all about this so trust me. Use a trailor when towing or dont tow at all.

[Peteguy]

Did you even read the OP's post? I would of thought reading comprehension would of been necessary to get your degree.

[dieselmech2]

Did u run the codes on it? Will it crank over or just click? Understand the exhaust is coming down the passenger side, and with pulling a camper it is going to rise the EGT's.


Brian
Bleckman Diesel

[dieselmech2]

If the tow truck guy knows what he is doing he will undo the drivelive first.


Brian

[SpongeBobSP]

I was towing the 5th wheel with my truck, my truck was not being towed.

[quote="DieselTechnology"]Never Never tow a truck with the wheels on the ground!
You could do sooooooooooooooooo mush dammage to a bunch of sensors and components in the trany and clutch and driveline.
Even if you mod your trany with a lub pump to tow, it still doesnt protect it from everything.

I just graduated with a diesel technology degree and my last class was all about this so trust me. Use a trailor when towing or dont tow at all.[/quote]

[SpongeBobSP]

Put an Akron ODBII reader on, no codes. Came back clean with a big ol 0. So that is good and bad, no major codes but now where to go.

Wife did notice the floor board was getting hot where trans hump is when we towed up a hill.
The last trip where we were stuck was a very short drive but one area had a pretty good short hill
put my foot deep in the pedal to get up - over drive was turned off.

Any ideas what would tell the truck not to start after towing hard?

[dieselmech2]

Have u checked your air filter lately? Almost sounds like a starter or starter solenoid and nothing to do with the engine.

Brian

[JohnC]

>>after shutting down it wont turn over unless it sits for 3 to 4 hours.

What do you mean by "turn over"? Is the starter not turning the engine? Look at the starter and solenoid and the heavy wiring from the batteries. Make sure the solenoid is getting the 12 volt signal from the ignition switch.

If it cranks (turns over) but won't light off, well that's another ball of wax...

[SpongeBobSP]

Lights come on completely normal on dash, no idiot lights or warnings.
Glow plug light goes off as expected then turn the key and nothing. Not a click or anything from the starter or solenoid. If it sits for an hour or two I can then try again and boom, turns over like a champ. Doesnt appear to be a voltage issue and I have full voltage on the dash. Can check starter voltage.

The only thing that ever acted funny under the hood that I could tell is what looks like a vacuum pump pumping, just in front of the Cab heater/ac air blower.

[dieselmech2]

Do like John C said with the test light, that will tell if the starter is bad or you have a failure between the batteries and the starter. You may still have voltage on the dash but not to the starter.

Brian

[SpongeBobSP]

quick update - now that it hit 100 I tried starting the truck after sitting for two days. Same result except I hadnt towed didly squat.

I was able to get under with a volt meter, no power to the start with key on and with ingnition in the start position.
Tested at the second battery post, had good power reading, then tested at the starter end of the cable. Goose Egg.
Now that I ripped out the dual battery cable (its a bit of a spider) I retested with an Ohm meter. Naturally it tests good.

After reading several other Ford owner posts I see that these cables dont last - looking for alternatives after seeing its $200 at Kragen and I dont even want to know what he dealer wants. Local napa can order the parts so I can assemble an equivalent.

Suggestions on other things I can test and maybe were to get the cable at a reasonable cost?

Thanks
Dan

[SpongeBobSP]

One thing I didnt test if there was voltage at the solonoid, only tested the 4/0 or so sized battery cable coming from the second battery lead.